Hawaii conjures images of blue skies and aqua water, not
necessarily visions of a barren landscape, volcanic rock, and breath-gripping
altitudes. Mauna Kea, an active volcano and the highest spot in Hawaii at
13,976 feet, is one of the few places where snow falls throughout the year and
winter clothes are recommended. This desolate location was the place my husband
and I decided to visit on our “tropical” vacation.
Mauna Kea sits central to the Big Island, and from the western
coast, it requires a journey along the “Saddle Road,” aptly named because it
saddles two volcanoes. Windswept and covered in volcanic rock, the landscape comes
straight from a science fiction or fantasy movie. Every bend in the road delivers
a new sight – black lava rock left from a previous flow, tall grasses bending
in the wind, a bit of cloud cover hanging low. Mysterious and creepy, it’s not
a place to be stranded at night. As we journeyed through this stark region in
our rented truck, it was often just the two of us meandering along without
another car in sight.
Eventually, we left the Saddle Road and started a much
steeper ascent up the volcano itself. Plant life became shorter and scrubbier.
Trees were non-existent. Cinder cones dotted the landscape, replicas of a
previous time when the Earth’s fury was on display. With every mile we gained altitude, and our
bodies reacted as we struggled for breath.
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| It's a good idea to stop here and acclimate to the altitude, |
We stopped at the Onizuka Center for International
Astronomy, a mid-level observatory and visitor center at 9,200 feet. Visitors
are instructed to give their bodies time to acclimate to the altitude, and by
this point could we feel it. My chest was tight, and breathing was difficult. We
watched as numerous visitors didn’t pause too long; they just forged ahead up
the mountain. Several foolish people continued to the top with their young
children, even though the scientists at the center warned against it. The lack
of oxygen is dangerous for kids whose bodies are still developing. The
recommended age is 16 and older.
After a 30-minute break, we hopped back into our trusty
truck and put it through a workout as we trundled along the dirt road. We
learned why some people never venture to the top of Mauna Kea. The entire
adventure was a steep white-knuckle drive with plenty of gravel-throwing and
fish-tailing.
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| Standing on top of the world! |
The scene at the peak was worth the journey, though. We
broke through the clouds to a glorious sight. Gleaming white observatories rose
high to the heavens. Sunlight streamed across the surface of the mountain and
the clouds, lighting the summit like a jewel of the sky. The dirt was red and
the plant life was nil. It was one of the most beautiful sights I’ve ever
witnessed. We had the privilege of literally standing on top of the world.
The world’s largest telescope, the Keck Telescope, stood
like a beacon on a hill. It’s joined by 10 other telescopes, all closed to the
public, but that didn’t stop us from visiting them from the outside and talking
about a million pictures.
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| I wish we could've gone inside the observatories, but it was still fun to see them from the outside. |
Sunset can be viewed from the summit, but we took in the
colors of twilight from the visitors’ center. Once darkness arrived, the reward
was a breathtaking view of the constellations. Mauna Kea is privileged enough
to see the Southern Cross, a rare treat in the northern hemisphere.
Hawaii is often thought of as “the beach,” but a journey to
Hawaii’s tallest spot proved that there’s more to Hawaii than sand, surfing,
and sun.
Tips for driving to Mauna Kea....A four wheel drive vehicle is best, although we did see people driving in their regular cars. From the visitor's center, it is a dirt/gravel road the rest of the way to the top. If you plan to stay for sunset on top of the mountain, be aware that your drive back down will be pitch black. The altitude is REAL, and the difference from the visitors center to the top will be quite noticeable. It feels like a tight chest, dizziness, and it's very hard to breathe. The slightest exertion will leave you winded. Do NOT take children under age 16 past the visitors center.
Travel time from the Kona area on the west coast is around 2 hours one way. From Hilo on the east coast, it's around 1 hour. Plan plenty of time and have a full gas tank. There's no gas on the Saddle Rd. Also, bring food and water because once you leave the coasts there aren't any places to get food. The visitors center sells light snacks. Wear warm clothes, bring sunglasses, and wear sturdy shoes.
The visitors center can get crowded at sunset, so get there early. On some nights astronomers will give talks on the stars and constellations, which is very informative.
Website for the Visitor Center: http://www.ifa.hawaii.edu/info/vis/
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| Each of the observatories had a different look and contains a unique type of telescope. |
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| No trees or plants, but beautiful still the same. |
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| This is gorgeous! I loved it! |
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| I'm on top of the world, looking out on creation... |
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| This peak is actually the REAL top of the mountain. A sign asks visitors to not walk out to it. |
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| This is what it looks like on the drive to the top of Mauna Kea. Nothing but rocks and dirt. |
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| Poised and ready for nightfall and the search through the stars. |
