Let's Go to Machu Picchu!

Machu Picchu is the gem of Peru. Actually, it’s the gem of all South America. It stands as the #1 tourist destination for the entire continent. What makes this place so special? It’s just a bunch of ruins, right? Wrong. A former Inca city and stronghold, it sits perfectly positioned on top of Machu Picchu mountain (the real name of the city is still unknown to this day). Unable to be seen from the mountain’s base and hidden from invading Spanish forces in the 1500s, it was never plundered or destroyed as many other Inca cities were. It sat hidden from the outside world until American Hiram Bingham from Yale University discovered it in 1911. Since then, visitors from around the world have flocked to this site, over 1 million in 2013 alone. It is officially a UNESCO World Heritage site and is one of the new Seven Wonders of the World.

As my husband, Dan, and I laid the groundwork for a 16-person mission trip to Peru, we considered whether or not to take the group to Machu Picchu. We didn’t go there on our 2012 mission trip. Could we make it happen this time around?

Our first view of Machu Picchu...postcard perfect!

The only right choice in the matter seemed to be the addition of an excursion to Machu Picchu. We were already going to be in the country, and of our 16-person group, I was the only one who’d ever been to Machu Picchu. Plus, the journey to Machu Picchu starts in the city of Cusco which sits at 10,000 feet elevation. Since our team would be hiking at elevations equal to that or higher once we started the trekking portion of our ministry, we needed to give our bodies time to acclimate to the altitude. Machu Picchu sits at about 8,000 feet, so we could use the time to acclimate to altitude, plus see an amazing historical site. On paper, this all made sense, and it sounded great.

Our team on the mean streets of Aguas Calientes. There's nothing
quite like an international trip to bring people together.

Even though the journey from the United States to Peru is a long one, we knew that once in Peru, getting to Machu Picchu would still be quite an endeavor. International visitors must enter the country through the capital city of Lima. Machu Picchu isn’t close to Lima, and many mountains stand in between. Getting to Machu Picchu then includes a plane ride to Cusco, a bus ride through the Sacred Valley, and a train trip to the small town of Aguas Calientes. From Aguas Calientes intrepid tourists can hike up the side of the mountain, but most people take the bus up a narrow switchback road.

As our team embarked upon this journey to Machu Picchu, something wonderful began to happen. A tight team bond started to form. Even though we all knew each other before we left the USA, there’s something about traveling that brings people together. We started to know the “real” people, the ones that sometimes live behind facades. This process cannot be forced...it has to unfold naturally through a series of experiences.

Another unique component to this process was that even though we had tour guides and taxi drivers who could get us to all the right places, Dan and I were the true leaders of the group. We had the ultimate responsibility of making decisions that impacted everyone. We don’t speak Spanish, and we didn’t have any special insights, except for my previous trip to Machu Picchu. This “feet on the ground leadership” honed our skills and further brought the team into a tight-knit group.

The team begins to form a bond...one that would serve us well
on the entire trip.

So, our journey to Machu Picchu was more than just seeing ruins. It was about forming a team, a “family,” which would benefit us later when we trekked into the mountains to deliver Bibles to the Quechua people. 

Preparing for Peru

My third time to Peru...love that
place!

When I first went to Peru in 2010, I assumed it would be my one and only trip to this beautiful South American country. Now here I am in 2014 after completing my third trip to this gem of the southern hemisphere. What a privilege it was for my husband, Dan, and I to serve as leaders of a 16-person mission team from our church.

Leaders...we learned a lot!

Dan and I participated in a 2012 trip to Peru to do this same type of work...distribute translated Bibles to the Quechua-speaking people of the Andes. A 40-year translation project resulted in the New Testament finally being available in the Quechua language, but many of the Quechua-speaking people living in the mountains had yet to receive a copy. Working with a team of Peruvian missionaries, we trekked into the mountains to deliver those Bibles. What a thrill it was to hand the Quechua people a copy of God’s word for the first time in their own heart language.

Two years later we volunteered to lead this same endeavor. And when I say, “lead,” I mean plan, organize, and direct our American team. We quickly learned that taking ourselves to South America is QUITE different from leading other people there. A strong belief in our task strengthened our resolve, as well as the knowledge that serving in the name of the Lord means walking within His protection.

Dan and I also served as the managers of the team once our feet were on the ground in Peru. The job was much easier once we met up with the Peruvian missionaries. We followed their directions for the distribution of the materials and for interacting with the people. Interacting with local people was complicated by the fact that none of us spoke Quechua, a language that’s very different from English, Spanish, or any other language the typical American has exposure to.

What a privilege to hand a Bible to someone translated into their
own "heart language!"

But, the foreign-ness of Quechua helped drive home an important fact. If Quechua felt like an alien language to us, then how must Spanish (the other official language of Peru) or English feel to them? It doesn’t make any sense at all, just as we can’t begin to understand a word of Quechua. For example, the simple phrase, “Hello. How are you?” is written like this in Quechua: Llamellacu quecanqui. If I hadn’t just given you the translation, this phrase would’ve made no sense. And so, as our team prepared to go to Peru, to the Quechua people, we felt strengthened by the belief that God’s Word is for everyone, and everyone needs access to it in their heart language.

Airport adventures...don't fall asleep! lol

On an early July morning, packed and ready to go, boots ready to walk, sixteen of us trundled off to the airport for an early morning flight to South America. Dan and I were the intrepid leaders, ready to face what lay ahead on this grand adventure, sustained by the grace of God.

Back to Peru

In the shadow of Huascaran, Peru's tallest mountain

Two trips to Peru in two years; experiencing this wonderful country twice in a short amount of time leaves me humbled. And now as I stand in the early weeks of 2014, I find myself planning another trip to this South American wonderland.  I don’t speak Spanish, I’m not fond of eating guinea pig (the Peruvian national dish), hiking in the Andes is strenuous, the rain forest is wretchedly humid...so why would I jump at the chance to go back to such a place? The bigger question is, why wouldn’t I?

Observing parrots at the clay lick near the Tambopata
Research Center.

My first journey to Peru was a trip for teachers to the Amazon rain forest. I spent a week sleeping under  mosquito nets, dodging bats (not my favorite animal), and sweating profusely without end.  However, the ability to witness this marvel of nature was worth 

all the difficult times. Never could I have believed that such a place existed. The monkeys howled in the trees, the beautiful birds soared through the sky, the frogs and insects chirped at all hours of the night; the Amazon presented itself as an alien planet, not an earthbound locale.

My second journey took me in an entirely different direction. I hiked in the Andes Mountains with 13 members of my church. Our goal was to deliver translated Bibles to the native Quechua people. These folks had never owned a Bible in their own language until our band of “Gringos” appeared in their villages to give them one. The trekking was rough, but the thrill of handing God’s word to people for the first time in their lives made every step worth it.

My third trip south of the Equator will again require a trek into the Andes to deliver Bibles to native Quechua people. As a co-leader alongside my husband, we’ve assembled a 16-person team who will walk into little-seen corners of the mountains, Bibles in hand. As heads of the team, it’s our job to get everyone safely there and back and to accomplish our mission in the process. It’s amazing experience to lead a group of friends and to have the responsibility of bringing God’s word to those who’ve ever had it. I expect that we will bless people through our actions, and the experiences of our last trip make me hopeful for our success.

For example, on the 2012 trip we visited four different villages. After the third village, we embarked upon the trail towards our last and final village. When I say, “trail,” imagine a small winding path that may be trod upon by people, donkeys, horses, or sheep at varying points throughout the day. At times we didn’t even walk on trails but just cut across country, as needed.

How privileged we were to see this man
come to Christ!

Our group was walking along one of these paths when a farmer came running to us. He’d heard about our nightly presentation where we passed out the Bibles. He’d been unable to attend the previous night, but he still wanted to talk to us. Through a translator we learned that he’d been struggling with alcoholism, and he knew he needed help. He wanted to accept Christ into his life. So, we all prayed with him right on that mountainside and watched as the joy of Christ became evident in his life.

He was thrilled that he hadn’t missed his chance, and we were thrilled to see the hand of God at work in the mountains of Peru. As we trekked on, it was unclear who was more excited, the Peruvian man we’d just prayed with or our band of travelers who’d just witnessed a miracle.

When I think ahead to the upcoming trip, I can’t help but pray for more experiences like that one. It makes all the work, the planning, the trekking, and the journey into the unknown worth it...to go back to a place I love. To go back to Peru.

Poor Lambchop!

Lambchop doesn't know what's coming!

We ate Lambchop! I knew that would get your attention. Let me explain.

I enjoyed the fresh foods that we ate in Peru, but at times, fresh brought on a whole new meaning. As my team and I hiked in the Andes, we were fortunate enough to have cooks with us to prepare and serve all of our food. Most of the food was fresh from local farms, or from other areas of Peru. Some of our meat was actually purchased from the local farmers that we came in contact with in the villages we passed through.

Face to face with dinner...this is not
for the faint of heart!

The group decided to pool our money and buy a sheep which the cooks would then fix for dinner for us. I was excited about this because it meant REALLY fresh meat. I was also a little grossed out because it meant coming face to face with dinner. Admittedly, I am not often spending time with my food before it ends up on my plate. Talk about a reality factor!

The sheep we purchased was nicknamed "Lambchop" by our group. It walked from one village to the next with us. And then, the cooks butchered it. Several group members watched the butchering close up,  but I decided to refrain. I decided I didn't need to see this process close-up. Other team members reported that it was interesting. Even my own hubby watched and didn't seem bothered by it.

The cooking of the meat was the most amazing part. Our cooks built a little "oven" out of stones. They wrapped the meat in individual foil packets which they placed in the oven, and then they piled stones over top. Veggies and potatoes were cooked on top of the stones. The whole process was amazing.

The food...delicious! The fresh lamb was so good, and the veggies and potatoes were all locally grown and harvested. This was some great eating! But, the entire group did agree on one thing...poor Lambchop!

Adventures in Sleeping in the Peruvian Andes

“Sleeping in a hotel and a tent in the mountains shouldn’t be difficult, right? It doesn’t matter that the hotel and tent will be in the Peruvian Andes. This should be easy.” I deluded myself into thinking that before I left the United States for Peru. Boy, was I wrong! The simple act of sleeping challenged me during the 10 days I spent in Peru.

My first adventure in sleeping took place in a hotel in Huarez, Peru, nestled in the Peruvian Andes. Huarez is not a small town, and thus, I figured the hotels would be decent. Our hotel was not bad, but it had a few quirky qualities that kept reminding me that I was not at home anymore.

Want hot water 24/7? Then this may not be the hotel for you.

One of the most painful quirks was the lack of hot water. Strangely, our shower never had more than a pencil-width stream of water coming out of it, but it was also cold half of the time. There wasn’t a predictable pattern as to when the water would be cold and when it would be hot. In a few instances, there wasn't any water at all, but the hotel staff seemed to be able to fix that. We decided that if there was water and it was hot, then it was time to take a shower!

The particular room my husband and I bunked in allowed us to hear the conversation of our neighbors with startling accuracy. A morning conversation about bodily functions and intestinal distress left us laughing out loud. Poor Stephanie…we didn’t know who she was, but we learned a lot about her health issues that morning.

Street noise was also our constant companion. Loud singing, bands playing in nightclubs, and car horns honking provided a background for much of the night. We learned that Peruvians honk their car horns much more frequently than Americans do, but the honks aren’t necessarily angry honks, just attention getting honks.

Our first campsite, nestled in the mountains. Beautiful, but cold at night!

After leaving Huarez, we set out for the mountains. The main purpose of our trip was to hike in the mountains and distribute translated Bibles to the native people. While on the trekking part of the trip, we slept in tents. I am not a proficient tent sleeper, but I’m always up for an adventure, and I figured that tent sleeping in the Andes ranked in the adventure category.

We slept at elevations above 10,000 feet, and it dipped into the 30’s at night. During the day the sun was always out, and we were toasty warm. After the sun set, the temperature dropped rapidly. In the evening I wore two to three layers of clothes, plus a coat with a hat, scarf, and gloves. I then understood why the Peruvians chose to wear woolen clothes in those conditions. 

When it was bedtime, I still kept on two to three layers of clothes, plus my hat which was made from Alpaca wool. I had my sleeping bag, plus a fleece liner. In the four nights that we camped, I froze for three of them. My nose, the most exposed skin that I had, was the coldest part. Otherwise, I cocooned myself into the sleeping bag to stay warm.

Donkeys may look cute, but they are NOISY!

Being cold wasn’t my only challenge in the tents. It was noisy. I thought that sleeping in the mountains would be a quiet affair, but it was just as noisy as sleeping in Huarez because we were surrounded by the native peoples’ farms. Dogs seemed to be everywhere, and they barked all night long. One night a dog barked directly outside the entrance to my tent, which woke me from my sleep and set my heart thumping against my chest. Donkeys carried our gear in the mountains, so the braying of donkeys was another noise. Their braying is LOUD and long. The roosters started crowing around 4:00 a.m. and continued for hours. The entire group had something to say about the roosters, but our cooks solved the problem for us. They bought a rooster from one of the farmers, and we ate it for dinner that night. It was some of the best poultry we had!

Another night we were camped on a slope, and my sleeping back was made of slick fabric. It constantly slid down to the foot of the tent because my mattress pad was also smooth. I kept trying to scoot back up, but I was cocooned in my bag, so I wasn’t mobile. After a constant battle of sliding down and scooting up, I finally gave up the fight. By morning, I was sleeping in a pile at the foot of the tent.

The sun is starting to go down, and I'm getting cold. But,
it's all worth it for views like this!

After four nights of camping in the freezing cold, I was actually glad to go back to the hotel in Huarez with its lack of hot water, noise from the street, and talkative neighbors. Even though my sleeping wasn’t great for all those nights, all I could do was laugh about it. There’s nothing like having adventures in sleeping!

Guinea Pigs are Not Pets in Peru, They're Food!

Guinea pigs for sale in the market in Huarez, Peru.

Even though I had been to Peru before, I’d never had a chance to try one of their national dishes, the cuy. In America, it’s better known as a guinea pig. Yes, in Peru, guinea pigs are eaten, not kept as pets. My first trip to Peru had not afforded me the opportunity to taste guinea pig, but I felt certain that my second trip would have a guinea pig eating opportunity. And, I was right.

Before the moment for eating arrived, my group had visited a local market where guinea pigs were on display and ready to be sold. This wasn’t a tidy supermarket, as in the United States. It was an open air market where the stalls had no refrigeration, and the meat sat out all day with the organs and innards revealed just waiting for buyers. I saw multitudes of guinea pigs on display in that environment, and it certainly didn’t whet my appetite for the dish.





Guinea pigs on a plate!

On a Sunday afternoon, we made our way to a restaurant and recreational park on the outskirts of Huarez. This was a lovely place to spend a day. As we relaxed at the outdoor dining tables, we noticed an extensive playground for children, a swimming pool, and a stage for live bands. A walk to the back of the property revealed a rushing mountain stream along with views of the surrounding mountains. It was easy to relax and socialize in this setting. It was also a great place to order guinea pigs for lunch.

We ordered our meals, including several guinea pigs. We decided that we’d just share them amongst the group members. We treated them as if they were appetizers, but I wasn’t sure I’d have much of an appetite after ingesting a guinea pig.

Ready to eat...

It wasn’t long before the guinea pigs arrived at the table. They came with heads, arms and legs, claws, and teeth intact. They were arranged neatly on potatoes, but there was no mistaking the fact that we were about to eat rodents.

Our guides told us that the best way to eat them was to pick them up and gnaw away, just as one might dig into fried chicken. Forks and knives were not necessary in this instance because a typical guinea pig doesn’t contain much meat. It’s difficult to cut the meat with utensils. I still found the thought of gnawing on a guinea pig leg to be distasteful, so I used my knife and fork against the advice we were given.

Since everyone in the group was digging in, I took a deep breath and ate the guinea pig meat that I had on my fork. I expected a nasty experience, but I found the meat to have a mild flavor with the texture of chicken. It wasn’t disgusting, but I had trouble getting past the fact that I was eating a rodent. I didn’t devour an entire guinea pig, but I felt satisfied that I had eaten enough to qualify as a guinea pig eater.

Nope, I can't eat it this way. I have to use a fork!

Several of the more adventurous teens in the group decided to eat the guinea pigs’ eyeballs, but I didn’t go that far with my guinea pig eating. The claws of the guinea pig also provided some entertainment as various group members used them as toothpicks.

There are many times in life when I’ve said, “Never!” to myself. But this was one of those times where I felt like I had to jump in the pool. How many Americans can say they’ve eaten a guinea pig? Well, now I can, and it honestly wasn’t that bad!

The attached heads added to the "ick" factor.

 

Distributing Bibles by the Light of a Generator

Thank goodness for these donkeys! They carried our gear in the mountains.

In July, I had the privilege of traveling to Peru as part of a 14-member team from my church. Our mission was to journey into the Andes Mountains to deliver the recently translated New Testament to the Quechua people, the native people of Peru. This mission required hiking between villages to places not easily traversed by vehicles.

We spent the majority of each day hiking, usually about five to ten miles a day. Our group attracted a lot of attention as we traipsed along the mountain pathways. The people living in the mountains looked on with curiosity at this group of “Gringos.” A team of 20 donkeys carried our gear: tents, equipment, and personal effects packed into duffel bags. So, in addition to the Gringos, we had donkeys and the Peruvians who traveled with us as our guides, cooks, and “donkey drivers.” We were quite a crew!

Our teens played soccer with the local kids in each village.

We normally reached our intended villages by mid-afternoon, and our first task was to make camp. After that, we attempted to interact with the local people. To engage them, the teens in our group would start to play soccer. That drew a great number of kids. It didn’t matter that the same language wasn’t spoken; soccer seemed to be the universal language. After playing with us, the kids eagerly brought their parents back later in the evening.

Yeppo, one of the Peruvian missionaries, also walked around the surrounding area with a bullhorn. He’d announce the activities for the evening, which included the “Jesus” film translated into Quechua. As the sun set, the people made their way to us. Some people walked for two or more hours to watch the video and hear what we had to say.

In an area that had virtually no electricity, we had to be fully prepared to share our message. That meant using a generator to power all the equipment. The video projector, the sound system, and a single light bulb were the extent of what we used for the presentations. One little light bulb made a huge difference in a space that was totally dark otherwise.

The “Jesus” movie was shown first. Once it was over, a Peruvian missionary shared the gospel message with the crowd. After that, it was time for the Gringos! Our leader, Pastor Adam, would give a brief introduction to the crowd which was translated by our Peruvian leader, Ade, since he could speak English, Spanish, and Quechua.  Two members from our group would then share their own testimonies, again translated by Ade. After that, we always sang a song in English. Even though the Quechua people didn’t know exactly what we were saying, they seemed to enjoy and appreciate it.




I present a Bible and calendar to one of the Quechua people.
(Photo courtesy of D. Griffieth)

The final moment of every evening was the distribution of the Quechua Bibles. This was a huge event for the villagers, as they’d never before had a Bible in their own language. The mayor of each village called families up one by one, and we took turns presenting them with a Bible. Many families opened the Bibles immediately and started to read by our generator-powered light bulb or by their own headlamps. It humbled me to think how I’d taken for granted owning a Bible in English, and here these people were getting one in Quechua for the first time. The smiles on the people’s faces said it all. This was a big deal. It filled me with joy to be able to spread God’s Word to people who were reading it for the first time…in Quechua!

Next week: Enjoying Peruvian cultural moments

Meeting the Quechua People of Peru

Holding baby Elmer from one of the
families we met along the trail.

In July, I had the privilege of traveling to Peru as part of a fourteen-member team from my church. Our mission was to journey into the Andes Mountains to deliver the recently translated New Testament to the Quechua people, the native people of Peru. This mission required hiking between villages to places not easily traversed by vehicles. We spent most of our trip hiking in-between two major mountain ranges, the snowcapped Cordillera Blanca and the brown Cordillera Negra.

Who are the Quechua people? For the most part, they are an agrarian people who farm on the sides of the Andes Mountains. They have devised methods suitable for cultivating this tough terrain, and they work the land with their hands and basic equipment. Irrigation canals cut across the mountains as the people have learned how to harness the melting snow mass to water their fields. Their methods seemed antiquated to me, an American used to flat farm fields full of modern machinery. But, how could I argue with time tested methods of farming in this unforgiving landscape?

Encountering sheep along the mountain trail

Indeed, as my team walked across the mountains, we saw many people hard at work in their fields. In one place, we encountered a man using a horse to flatten wheat and remove the grain from it. Farther along the trail, we talked to men who expressed dismay at the lack of water reaching their fields. Everywhere we went, we saw the people dressed in colorful clothes that seemed to be the uniform of the Andes Mountains. We later learned that the colorful clothes are worn so people can easily be seen as they work on the mountainsides. In particular, the shoes of people amazed us. They wore shoes that resembled “dress shoes” with thin soles. These shoes were worn by men and women alike as they walked all over the mountain trails and worked in the fields. By contrast, our team wore hiking shoes with lots of good tread.

Our visits included nightly stops in villages where we distributed the translated New Testament Bibles to families. We also made daily visits to schools. All of the materials we distributed were translated into the Quechua language, the native language of the people. The school visits gave us the chance to distribute Bible storybooks and coloring books to the students. The coloring books included pages where the students could practice their native Quechua and also begin to learn some English words. We practiced the English words aloud with the students, and this was a highlight for the students and our group. We enjoyed sharing our native language with young kids who’d never heard those words.

Me with kids at a school visit...we gave them suckers, and
they loved it!

Our group was warmly received at the schools because it included “Gringos,” a word often used to describe the Americans. We had Peruvian missionaries traveling with us, but they knew from experience that the doors would not have been opened if it had just been them coming to visit. With the addition of the Americans, the schools welcomed our group. The schools viewed this as a great cultural experience for the kids in addition to the benefit of receiving all the materials and gifts we brought with us. It was the first time many of the Quechua children had seen Americans, Gringos, and they studied us with great interest and curiosity. The kids loved getting the gifts and books that we distributed. They also loved to have their pictures taken. They wanted to see their faces on the screens of the digital cameras, and they squealed with delight. It was a cute show of emotion from a people who are normally very stoic.

The school visits were fun and easy because they took place during the day, and we had a captive audience. The nightly village visits were more challenging because people had to come to us to hear our message and receive a Bible. Plus, we didn’t have electricity. How could a message be shared in the dark without the benefit of electricity? Only by the grace of God and with the help of a generator.

Next week: Passing out Bibles in the Andes by the light of a generator

Journey to Peru

In July, I had the privilege of traveling to Peru as part of a fourteen-member team from my church. Our mission was to journey into the Andes Mountains to deliver the recently translated New Testament to the Quechua people. This was not a tourist’s vacation, but it was a trip into remote areas to mingle with the native Peruvian people.

Our journey started in Lima, Peru, the entry point into the country for international travelers. Lima, a bustling city full of life, is like any big city around the world. It has its shining buildings reaching for the sky as well as its seedier, more destitute parts. There could be plenty of work to do in a city like Lima, but our final destination was more far-flung. We boarded a bus heading northwest into the Andes to the city of Huarez.



The main Plaza in Huarez

Huarez bustles along with a population of roughly 50,000 people. It sits at an elevation of 10,000 feet and is nestled neatly in between two major mountain ranges, the brown Cordillera Negra and the snowy Cordillera Blanca. Huarez isn’t a spit-and-polished typical tourist destination, although it serves as the home base for mountain explorers trekking up into the nearby peaks. In fact, Peru’s highest mountain, Huascaran, can be seen from Huarez itself.

Because of the rapid change in altitude when traveling from Lima to Huarez, altitude sickness is a danger. Anyone planning to exert themselves with strenuous exercise at those altitudes has to take time to adjust or face the possibility of altitude sickness. Cooling our heels for a few days in Huarez gave us a chance to adjust to the culture as well as the altitude. I had a harsh reality check for what was to come as we took a practice hike one day. A steep climb up into the hills of Huarez left my legs burning and my lungs wheezing. I realized why dealing with altitude was a big deal as my head spun and my stomach churned. This wasn’t like hiking at home!



Reality check! Practice hike in Huarez...10,000 feet is rough!

Finally, the day came for us to head out into the mountains. We planned to take a small bus to the first village on our schedule, and then for the next four days we would hike in between villages. At each village we’d distribute Bibles and other materials. We would also visit schools and meet with students. All of the materials we planned to distribute were translated into the Quechua language, the native language of the people in that region. This would be the first time that most of these people would ever have a Bible in their native tongue.

As we started up the mountain in our bus, I realized how far we were from home. The road was dirt. It was a switchback road, which kept us twisting and turning up the steep mountain. The road was mainly a one lane road, although two cars could fit alongside each other, if needed.  There were no guardrails on the side of the road. As we whipped along at what seemed to be a breakneck speed, I looked out my window to see a sheer drop down the side of the mountain. We met up with groups of sheep and cattle as the bus continued its journey up the mountainside. We gave them the right-of-way, which seemed to be the best choice.

Our first campsite...what a great view!

Finally, we were at the village and our first campsite. Farmers’ fields, built right onto the mountainside, surrounded us, as well as a beautiful mountain lake. Cordillera Negra was on one side of us and Cordillera Blanca was on the other. We could see Huascaran standing tall at its 22,205 foot majesty. We were miles from anything resembling a regular civilization, but as I stood on that mountain in Peru, I couldn’t imagine a better place to be.

Next week: Meeting the Quechua people

Machu Picchu...Where Incas Once Walked

“The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for.” And so, as my time in Peru was coming to its end, I reminded myself of this very thing. Machu Picchu was the end of the trail for me, the final big moment of my entire adventure. But hadn’t the whole journey and everything that I’d seen and done been just as spectacular as Machu Picchu was sure to be?

I pondered these thoughts as I stood in the bus line for Machu Picchu. It was 5:00 a.m., the rain fell steadily, and I tried to reconcile my excitement for the approaching Machu Picchu experience with the rest of the trip. I also worked to temper a growing rise of despair. After a week in the rainforest where we saw virtually no rain, I now faced a rainy and cloudy day. There was no alternative to the plan. I had only one day left to see Machu Picchu, and it was today. If this weather didn’t cooperate, I would head back to Ohio without the final jewel in the crown of this trip…Machu Picchu.

The bus ride up the mountain found us on a switchback road where every turn nearly brought us into a head-on collision with another bus. The drop from the side of the road was a sheer plummet down the side of the mountain. One wrong turn would bring certain death, but I pushed that thought as far out of my mind as I could. My focus was on the ancient city of the Incas, which had been hidden in the mountains for hundreds of years. An amazing feature of Machu Picchu is that it cannot be seen from lower elevations. The Incas positioned it to be perfectly hidden. In fact, the site was unknown to the Spanish who invaded in the 1500s, even though they had taken over and plundered many other Inca cities nearby. I was filled with anticipation as we made our way up the mountainside, and I felt impatient that there wasn’t anything to be seen as we traveled.

Finally, the moment arrived. And, the moment was shrouded by rain and clouds. I was disappointed. I had hoped to enter the city and see the beautiful vista that is always shown in pictures. With the cloud cover and rain, I couldn’t see anything but the structures in close proximity to us. I felt let down, but I kept reminding myself that the day wasn’t over yet. It was still early.

Our tour guide led us around to the major sights. He spoke English, but his accent was quite thick, so I found it difficult to understand what he said. I sympathized with some of the other people in our group for whom English was their second language. I wondered how much of the information they were getting. I tried to absorb as much as I could about the Incas and this city they had built. It has stood the test of time, but much of its purpose can still only be speculated.

As the tour wound down, I felt encouraged as I realized that the cloud cover was lifting and the rain had stopped. I now realized that I might actually get to see the city as a whole. While waiting, I explored more of the city and watched as the skies started to show more and more blue sky.

<><> <><> <><>

Finally, I got to see this breathtaking view of Machu Picchu!

Finally, the clouds were practically gone, the sun was out, and the sky was blue. There it was…this majestic city of the Incas laid out in front of us, and what a magnificent site it was to behold. I kept climbing up higher and higher until I stood at one of the highest peaks of the mountain. I looked down across the city, the surrounding valleys, and all the mountains adjacent to this one. A bird soared high above the summits, and I could clearly see why the Incas chose this site of splendor for their city. It truly was as if we were closer to God in this place, a place that brushed the heavens.

With the sun on my skin and the wind in my hair, I felt like I never wanted to leave. I sat down on the ground and just tried to absorb the beauty and the power that this place held. Like a scene from another world, it seemed to have a life all its own. This, my end of the trail, could not have been better. The journey, with all its trials and difficulties, was worth it. It was worth every step, every drop of sweat, and every tear. It was a journey that changed me irrevocably, and because of that, I knew I had seen everything for which I had traveled.

The Road to Machu Picchu is Long

After a week in the rain forest, the official college class portion of my Peruvian trip had ended. I could have gone home, but that would have been way too boring and not nearly complicated enough. I decided to stay and take an extra trip to Machu Picchu, the site of an ancient Inca city and the number one tourist destination in South America. I felt that it would be pointless to go all the way to Peru and not visit Machu Picchu. Several of my classmates had the same idea, so a group of us headed off to Cusco, the main city used for a sojourn to Machu Picchu.

Getting to Cusco from Puerto Maldonado was no problem. It's a simple plane ride between cities. Surprise! It was only 60 degrees in Cusco which sits at an elevation of 10,000 feet. What a shock to the system after spending a week in the humid rain forest. Thankfully, I had a sweatshirt with me. I wore it the entire time I was in Cusco and Machu Picchu. I also bought a hat and gloves made from Alpaca fur to keep me warm because it was so cold.

Touring the Sacred Valley on the way to Machu Picchu

The next day we headed out for the trek to Machu Picchu. It started with a tour of the Sacred Valley, a collection of ancient Inca sights full of history. This part of Peru is mountainous, so these ancient cities are built into the sides of cliffs, hills, and mountains which meant there was plenty of walking and climbing. But, what a variety of breathtaking splendor awaited those who ventured out. I was amazed by the structures the Incas built with their own bare hands. Our tour guide provided us with a wealth of information, and by mid-afternoon when we hit the town of Ollantaytambo, my head swam with facts and new knowledge.  

My head was also swimming in Ollantaytambo because we found ourselves waiting to catch a bus which would take us to catch a train to Aguas Calientes, the small town at the base of Machu Picchu. Normally, travelers could take a train all the way from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, but a landside just four months earlier left the train system partially inaccessible. We felt confused during this wait because we didn't speak Spanish, and we were at the mercy of anyone who could translate for us and explain the situation. We weren’t with the tour group anymore, so this part of the adventure left us to find our own way.

After what seemed like an eternity, we boarded buses and took off for the train station. The bus ride had us on a one-way road where we sat in a traffic jam for part of the trip. Once we got moving, we flew! High speeds, hair-pin turns, and narrow roads left me white-knuckled and gripping my seat. The river was on the left side of the road, and it was a decent drop-off from the road down to the river. One wrong move, and we would've been dead! This journey was not for the faint of heart, for sure.

When we finally got to the train station, we had to wait some more. It was fun, but in an awkward kind of way. Again, we had the confusion of not understanding the situation. The representatives from Peru Rail were bilingual, and so we kept asking for assistance. A few times we just followed the crowd and hoped we were headed in the right direction. This was how we got down to the train platform. Then, we stood there and watched as they put the train together right there on the tracks at the station. No one seemed to be in a hurry, so we just watched and waited because there wasn’t anything else we could do.

After all this waiting, we finally got on the train bound for Aguas Calientes. This was the "Backpacker Express" train, and it was filled with young people and families. We sat across from a young Spanish man and an American missionary. This was a slow train, so we had plenty of time to talk, sleep, read, and take in the general atmosphere. Unfortunately, it was dark outside, so we didn't get to see any scenery. I was disappointed in that because I wanted to see the mountains.

When we arrived in Aguas Calientes, it was midnight. We hadn't had dinner, and we were starved. We stayed at a hostel, and they had food ready for us when we got there. It was delicious and exactly what we needed. The rooms at the hostel were basic, but clean. We hit the showers and then the beds to catch some shut eye for our exciting day at Machu Picchu. The wake up call would be coming at 4:00 a.m. Ay, yi, yi!

How to be a Rain Forest Explorer

Want to travel to the Peruvian Amazon rain forest? Here are some tips and tricks to consider before you head out on your trip.

1.  Don’t touch anything. That is, don’t touch anything without looking first. Animals lurk where you least expect them. So, shake your shoes before you put them on.  Check the floor before you put your feet down in the morning, and pull back the bed covers before you climb in. Keep your suitcases shut, and don’t grab trees and plants in the forest. Never, ever walk barefoot.

2.  Knee-high rubber boots are your friends and also your enemies. While hiking in the rain forest, knee-high rubber boots keep your legs and ankles safe from mud, animals, and plants. However, if you wear them in the boat and your boat tips over, those suckers will fill up with water and drag you to the bottom of the river.

3.  Forget all those sacred cows in your life. Electricity, running water, air conditioning, hot water, washing machines, Internet access, long showers, cell phone coverage…these things do not exist in the rain forest. Amazingly, your life will go on without them.

4.  It doesn’t always rain in the rain forest. The rain forest has a dry season and a wet season. In the dry season, it doesn’t rain much. Despite this, you’d better be ready for rain because it could rain at any moment.

Waiting along the river in the Peruvian rain forest

5.  Rain forest animals do not come out to play. Finding animals in the rain forest is difficult. You have to know what to look for and how to listen carefully. Also, you have to be quiet or you definitely won’t see anything. If you plan to take pictures, then bring a zoom lens and a memory card with lots of space. Animals don’t pose for pictures or say, “Cheese.” They are hard to photograph.

6.  There’s no sleeping in during a visit to the rain forest. Early morning is the best time to see animals. So, plan on a hike before breakfast and before the sun rises. Don’t worry, you’ll go to bed early because there won’t be much to do in the evenings. No electricity, remember?

7.  Be ready for close encounters. You’ll have some freaky animal encounters. For example, bats flew past my legs so fast that I felt wind on my calves. I had a large cockroach on my shirt. There was a frog in my bathroom, and a vicious bullet ant crawling up my arm (their bite hurts for days). Bats woke me up while they fed during the night. A guy in my group found an extremely large spider in his bed. Toughen up before you leave home. You won’t regret it.

8.  You will sweat. The humidity is high and there’s no breeze. Air conditioning doesn’t exist, and you’ll need to wear long pants over your legs. You might even need to wear long sleeves. Oh, and on some hikes you’ll need to wear those knee-high rubber boots. You can bring all the moisture-wicking clothes you want, but you will not be cool or comfortable. You will be hot, sticky, sweaty, and stinky. Don’t worry, though. Everyone else will be, too.

9.  Picky eaters had better bring snacks. Granola bars work particularly well. Rain forest food will be native food, including lots of locally grown fruits. If you want a cold drink, then you’d best search for a lodge that caters to tourists. The more rustic accommodations will not serve anything cold. Caffeine addiction? Bring your own or hope for coffee.

10. There’s no time for beauty. Leave your make up, hair dryer, curling iron, and other beautification items at home. For one thing, there’s no electricity to power all those appliances. Make up is pointless because of the heat and humidity. Make sure you can put your hair in a ponytail and then throw a hat on your head. Everyone else will look equally plain, so you’ll fit right in with the crowd.

11.  You will not blend in with the locals. No matter how hard you try, everyone you meet will know you’re a foreigner. Your Spanish won’t be authentic enough, and your clothes will be too American. If you’re taller than about 5 feet, 5 inches, your height will give you away. Blonds and redheads don’t have a chance of passing as native Peruvians. People will stare at you, and you will not be able to avoid it.

12.  Get ready for awesome. If you can handle all these tips, then you’re ready for an awesome, mind-blowing experience as you journey into the wild. You’ll learn, see, feel, and think. It will change you beyond your wildest expectations, and it will leave you thirsting for more. So pack your bags, buy your plane ticket, and get ready for the journey of a lifetime to the Amazon rain forest. You will not come home the same.

A Bird in the Hand is Worth Two in the Mist Net

I am not a “bird nerd.” So, why in the world would I go on an educational trip to the Amazon rain forest where one of the study topics was birds? That’s a question I often asked myself as I tromped through the forest looking for birds. The answer?  Well, I like adventure. I like to learn new things. I needed college credit hours, and so all those things brought me to the forest to study birds. I learned a lot about birds in just a week...more than I ever thought I could.


On the first day of the trip, my group and I dove right into our learning activities, and one of the first things we did was to set up mist nets. A mist net is a long net that is used to catch birds in the wild. The birds can't see the nets, so they fly right into them. It doesn't hurt the birds to be in mist nets, but the person removing the birds has to be careful. Only our professors, Ursula and Jose removed birds from the nets.


Once the nets were set up, we checked them about every 45 minutes. Once a bird was caught in a net, it was removed and placed into a special bag. Ursula assured us that the bags did not harm the birds and that being in the bags helped to calm them. We then took the birds back up to the main lodge to be tagged.


The tagging process involved several tasks because one of our goals was to identify the types of birds we caught. So, all the birds were weighed and measured. Measuring involved the length of the beaks, legs, and wings. The colors and markings of the birds were also observed. Sometimes it was difficult to identify the birds because many of them looked similar. Ursula and Jose identified quite a few of the birds, but the rest of us typically had to look them up in a book, such as The Birds of Peru. After all the observations were made and noted, tags were placed on the bird's legs. The tags were tiny because birds don't weigh much. To place heavy tags on birds would greatly interfere with their ability perform needed tasks.

I'm in my gear and watching birds!

After the tags were on, the birds were ready to be released. The birds were held in such a way that they could simply fly away when they were ready. We were told not to give the birds a toss or a push because the ones who had been struggling during the tagging process might be weakened. If we tossed them, they could fall to the ground and be injured. Most of the birds we tagged were happy to get away from us, though.


Another learning activity during the trip was listening to birds and identifying them by their calls. I would like to say that I got really good at doing it, but that would be an exaggeration. By the end of the trip I could pick out about five birds every time by their calls. At the start of the trip, I couldn't do any, so I felt successful in this venture.

Up until I went on this trip, I thought being an animal researcher was all excitement and danger. In some cases, I’m sure it is. However, I also learned that it can be mundane. This became evident on the day my group sat at the bird researcher’s station at the clay lick.

The clay lick is where birds come to eat clay, which helps aid in their digestion. Our task was to spend three hours watching the clay lick and making notes about the activity we saw there. Well, as our luck would have it, just about the time that we took over the duties, there weren’t any birds at the clay lick. For three hours we sat and waited, but we didn’t see anything. Then the bugs descended on us and decided we were good for a snack. It got so bad at one point that we all resorted to wearing mosquito net hats. We looked ridiculous and had a great laugh about it. However, it didn’t change the fact that we had no birds to observe. On occasion, we studied birds in nearby trees. We saw some excellent blue and gold macaws, but they didn’t go back to the clay lick.

I was relieved when the regular researchers returned, and we got to relinquish our bird researching duties. I concluded that patience is one of the key attributes of a good bird watcher. Patience and a lot of bug spray.