The Road to Machu Picchu is Long

After a week in the rain forest, the official college class portion of my Peruvian trip had ended. I could have gone home, but that would have been way too boring and not nearly complicated enough. I decided to stay and take an extra trip to Machu Picchu, the site of an ancient Inca city and the number one tourist destination in South America. I felt that it would be pointless to go all the way to Peru and not visit Machu Picchu. Several of my classmates had the same idea, so a group of us headed off to Cusco, the main city used for a sojourn to Machu Picchu.

Getting to Cusco from Puerto Maldonado was no problem. It's a simple plane ride between cities. Surprise! It was only 60 degrees in Cusco which sits at an elevation of 10,000 feet. What a shock to the system after spending a week in the humid rain forest. Thankfully, I had a sweatshirt with me. I wore it the entire time I was in Cusco and Machu Picchu. I also bought a hat and gloves made from Alpaca fur to keep me warm because it was so cold.

Touring the Sacred Valley on the way to Machu Picchu

The next day we headed out for the trek to Machu Picchu. It started with a tour of the Sacred Valley, a collection of ancient Inca sights full of history. This part of Peru is mountainous, so these ancient cities are built into the sides of cliffs, hills, and mountains which meant there was plenty of walking and climbing. But, what a variety of breathtaking splendor awaited those who ventured out. I was amazed by the structures the Incas built with their own bare hands. Our tour guide provided us with a wealth of information, and by mid-afternoon when we hit the town of Ollantaytambo, my head swam with facts and new knowledge.  

My head was also swimming in Ollantaytambo because we found ourselves waiting to catch a bus which would take us to catch a train to Aguas Calientes, the small town at the base of Machu Picchu. Normally, travelers could take a train all the way from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, but a landside just four months earlier left the train system partially inaccessible. We felt confused during this wait because we didn't speak Spanish, and we were at the mercy of anyone who could translate for us and explain the situation. We weren’t with the tour group anymore, so this part of the adventure left us to find our own way.

After what seemed like an eternity, we boarded buses and took off for the train station. The bus ride had us on a one-way road where we sat in a traffic jam for part of the trip. Once we got moving, we flew! High speeds, hair-pin turns, and narrow roads left me white-knuckled and gripping my seat. The river was on the left side of the road, and it was a decent drop-off from the road down to the river. One wrong move, and we would've been dead! This journey was not for the faint of heart, for sure.

When we finally got to the train station, we had to wait some more. It was fun, but in an awkward kind of way. Again, we had the confusion of not understanding the situation. The representatives from Peru Rail were bilingual, and so we kept asking for assistance. A few times we just followed the crowd and hoped we were headed in the right direction. This was how we got down to the train platform. Then, we stood there and watched as they put the train together right there on the tracks at the station. No one seemed to be in a hurry, so we just watched and waited because there wasn’t anything else we could do.

After all this waiting, we finally got on the train bound for Aguas Calientes. This was the "Backpacker Express" train, and it was filled with young people and families. We sat across from a young Spanish man and an American missionary. This was a slow train, so we had plenty of time to talk, sleep, read, and take in the general atmosphere. Unfortunately, it was dark outside, so we didn't get to see any scenery. I was disappointed in that because I wanted to see the mountains.

When we arrived in Aguas Calientes, it was midnight. We hadn't had dinner, and we were starved. We stayed at a hostel, and they had food ready for us when we got there. It was delicious and exactly what we needed. The rooms at the hostel were basic, but clean. We hit the showers and then the beds to catch some shut eye for our exciting day at Machu Picchu. The wake up call would be coming at 4:00 a.m. Ay, yi, yi!

On the Road Again...In a Motortaxi

 

My transportation adventures in Peru were unique. In the two weeks that I spent there, I experienced planes, trains, busses, automobiles, taxis, boats, my own two feet, and motortaxis. Yes, that last one was, “motortaxis.”  Allow me to explain.


It is expensive to own and fuel a car in Peru. Since roughly 36% of the population lives in poverty, alternative modes of transportation are often seen. I didn’t notice this too much in Lima, the capital, but when I got to Puerto Maldonado, I saw it in full force.

I'm ready to ride in the motortaxi!

Puerto Maldonado is a growing city on the edge of the rain forest in southeastern Peru, and this was the meeting place for the teachers in my group. Motorcycles were the most popular mode of transportation there, and all the taxis in town were either motorcycles or motortaxis.


A motortaxi is like a motorcycle and a rickshaw combined. It seats two comfortably and three uncomfortably. When my group traveled by motortaxi, of course we always had three people wedged in the seat, which was the rickshaw part. Any luggage or other large bags were bungee-corded to the back, and the driver rode on the motorcycle part.

The native people of Peru are short, with the average height being about 5 feet, 1.5 inches. So, clearly, three Peruvian people in a motortaxi was quite different from three American people in a motortaxi. Riding three to a seat was survivable when the three people were all women or were the smaller people of the group. It got interesting when the bigger men were factored into the equation. All of the people in our group were physically fit, but we did have some men who were bigger…taller, huskier, and more muscular. I found myself in a motortaxi with those guys on a few occasions, and those close quarters made the entire motortaxi experience even more memorable.

Roads in Puerto Maldonado were paved in some areas, but a lot of them were just dirt roads. When we drove on the dirt roads, the dirt flew all over us and we choked on it. It was a 25-minute motortaxi ride to get from CECCOT, the place where we stayed, into Puerto Maldonado. The roads for that entire journey were dirt and gravel. So, by the time we got to town, we had been bumped around, hip to hip in the back of a motortaxi, for 25 minutes straight.

On our last day at CECCOT, we needed to leave there and travel by bus to get to the river dock. At that point we were going to board boats that would take us to Refugio Amazonas, our next stop on the trip. The road that ran by CECCOT was a basic road, so the bus could not come down to retrieve us. Motortaxis were organized to take us to a place where we could meet the bus.

I was in a motortaxi with another gal and one of the larger men from the group, Brian. Our luggage was strapped to the back, and we were headed on our way to the rendezvous point. All was well until we came to a hill. The motortaxi groaned and strained under the combined weight of us, our luggage, and the motortaxi driver. The driver urged the motortaxi on, but to no avail. So finally, Brian got out and started running alongside the motortaxi and pushing it to help it get up the hill. We girls stayed in the seat yelling encouragement to Brian, and trying not to laugh. Brian huffed and puffed as he ran alongside the motortaxi, which was still struggling to conquer the hill. When we finally got to the top of the hill, the motortaxi took off with a burst of speed and poor Brian got left in the dust. The driver stopped and waited while Brian jogged to catch up with us. Panting and out of breath, he was not as amused by the ordeal as we were. We packed him back into the seat with us, and we were off, making the rest of the trip without incident. The whole situation was strangely hilarious to me, and I couldn’t stop giggling to myself for the rest of the journey.

Other people in the group also had interesting moments in the motortaxis. One group’s motortaxi broke down. Another person got hit in the leg by a large piece of rock that flew up from the road. One group’s driver made a wrong turn, and they were lost for awhile. As a non-Spanish speaker, I’m glad I wasn’t in the motortaxi that got lost. All of these mishaps aside, it was a novel thing to ride around in a motortaxi, and I actually looked forward to it each time. Maybe this will be the next big motor trend for the United States. Motortaxis for everyone!

Journey to the Amazon

The Amazon rain forest. Those simple words conjure up a variety of pictures in the mind. When I hear those words, I envision tall trees, animals everywhere, lush green foliage and a world far away from the one I experience everyday in west central Ohio. I see a place that is still an unexplored frontier. It’s a place where humans can visit, but never truly own. With all of these visions in my mind, I did not hesitate to seize an opportunity to visit this vast wonderland. Going to the Amazon rain forest would be my chance to experience a corner of the world not often traveled by the masses. It is a place that most people only dream of visiting.

            This Amazon opportunity presented itself in the form of a program called Earth Expeditions. Earth Expeditions is part of a larger program called Project Dragonfly, run by Miami University in conjunction with the Cincinnati Zoo and Botanical Gardens. It offers educators the chance to travel to a natural habitat in remote corners of the world. Those locations include ones in Asia, Africa, Central and South America. Other aspects of the program include learning about conservation, community-based collaboration, and inquiry-based learning. More than just a trip, this program is an actual college course. There was work to be completed both before and after the trip. The final culminating project was an inquiry-based project that educators conducted in their own learning environments. The participants communicate with each other via a web-based learning community where all coursework is posted and discussed. While the group I was part of was comprised of Americans, the program is open to educators from around the world.

            My departure for the Amazon was in June 2010. I flew into Lima, Peru, and from there I headed to the eastern side of the country. My group, 19 other educators with whom I’d interacted on-line but never met, congregated in a small town called Puerto Maldonado, on the edge of the rain forest. The participants in this Amazon group came from Ohio, New York, California, Washington, Hawaii, and Idaho. We spanned a variety of ages, the youngest being 26 and the oldest being 55. Some of us were classroom teachers, while others worked at the university level.

Before leaving, I have to admit that I was nervous. I was getting ready to head into the rain forest with 19 other people that I didn't know. Traveling across the globe to meet up with complete strangers and then trek into the wild is a situation that's fairly unusual. I certainly felt it would test my ability to adapt and make friends quickly. Would I have the mettle? Fortunately, as I realized later, most of the people in the group were in the same exact situation. We all needed to make friends quickly. We all had to adapt. We all had to step out of our comfort zones. It helped that we were all educators, so we had that in common. Once I got to know my group members, I realized that these fears were all baseless.

As my plane circled Puerto Maldonado, I looked out the window. All I could see was a blanket of green…the rain forest. It was stretching out beneath me like a green carpet, just waiting to be explored. The excitement on the plane from the foreigners was palpable. We couldn’t wait to get out there.

The airport in Puerto Maldonado on the edge of the rain forest.

My first new sensation when I stepped off the plane was the humidity. It was like a smack in the face with a wet blanket. I was instantly sweating. Right away I was glad that I’d made an effort to pack clothes that were moisture-wicking. I knew I was going to need them. And, even though I thought convertible pants with zip off legs looked ridiculous, I could see that they were going to be very practical on this trip.

I quickly found out that air conditioning in this part of the world was a rare and exceptional treat. The airport was not air conditioned. In fact, it was fairly open-air. Inside the airport we already saw a few tropical birds flying around. The airport offered few creature comforts, but there was a place to buy a cold drink. Coca-Cola was my choice since I knew it might awhile before I consumed anything cold and caffeinated.

My group members were starting to assemble in the airport, and while we were waiting for everyone to arrive, I had the realization that I was on the threshold of the most unusual and unique experience I was likely to ever have in my life. It would be a week of new encounters, high adventure, and a journey into a place that most people will never see. It's the Amazon rain forest, and this was surely going to be my most thrilling experience yet.